Road Trip USA

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America’s National Parks: An American Perk worth celebrating.

Posted on by Posted in Arizona, California, East Coast, Georgia, Illinois, Maine, Massachussetts, Missouri, Nevada, New England, New York, North Carolina, Tennessee, Utah, Western USA .

In a week where the National Park Service has been in the news in relation to alleged censorship on Twitter by the Trump Administration, I have been thinking about one of my favourite things in America – the areas of outstanding beauty that are cared for by the agency – and am inspired to write a post reflecting on my experiences in some of America’s most stunning landscapes. I have had the privilege of spending time in many National Parks, and I hope to continue visiting and that they will remain protected for generations to come. As a Brit, I believe the National Park system is one of America’s finest assets – what follows are some of the parks I’ve been to and the pictures I’ve taken whilst there – I hope you agree that these parks are worth protecting and celebrating!

Grand Canyon National Park, AZ

The Grand Canyon, one of the seven wonders of the world, is a mile deep and around 10 miles wide on average. It is awe inspiring, and frankly left me speechless. I was fortunate enough to fly over the canyon in a helicopter – the moment where you come to the edge of the canyon and your stomach does a somersault inside you, your brain can’t comprehend the sheer size of what you’re looking at, so shrinks it down to make it more manageable. The orange/brown rock surrounds you and far below a thin green line winds it’s way through – the mighty Colorado river, a vast and powerful river which from the top of the canyon appears to be only 5cm wide. The individual layers of rock in the canyon glow in the Arizona sunshine and revealing history in front of your very eyes. It truly is astonishingly beautiful.

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

Less famous than its nearby cousin, Bryce Canyon is no less fascinating. Here, the rock formations stand tall like statues, an army of soldiers on parade, the fading evening light bouncing off the layers to produce an orange flame of colour. These structures are rather pleasingly called ‘hoodoos’ and can be up to 200ft high, formed not by central erosion, but rather by frost weathering and stream erosion. Native Americans developed a myth that the structures were in fact ‘The Legend People’ that the Coyote, a trickster type character, had turned to stone as punishment for being bad.  We stood and stared for almost an hour at these pillars of stone rising up from the ground, proud and striking and beautiful.

Zion National Park, UT

Zion is Utah’s oldest National Park, and is made up of giant Sandstone cliffs stretching high up above the Virgin River, which runs through the almost 230,000 square miles of wilderness. Climbing up towards the Emerald Pools, the vista of orange and pink rocks contrasted with a bright blue sky stretches out as far as the eye can see; waterfalls cascade down over pathways carved out by centuries of walkers navigating their way around the water, the droplets forming miniature rainbows as the sunlight hits them. Birds of prey circled overhead as we walked upwards, their calls echoing across the vast valley reminding us of the sheer size of the park. Everywhere you look there is wildlife – a deer darting behind a bush as it hears you approaching, squirrels and mice scurrying over the rocks scavenging for food – thanks to the vast difference in elevation across the park, thousands of species thrive here.

Death Valley National Park, CA/NV

The desert is an incredible place, and Death Valley is no exception. This is the hottest, driest and lowest National Park in the country (over 200ft below sea level). We stayed at Furnace Creek towards the end of September, and the temperature during the day got to 114 degrees Farenheit (45.5 degrees Celcius). This sounds horrendous, but it’s a dry heat, which is marginally more manageable than the humidity of the south. However, 10 minutes outside of the car was enough – the sun burned down onto our skin, the wind hot, and the shade absent. The silence is deafening – the air seems to press in on you and not a sound can be heard. The salt flats glow bright white in the distance, with the foreground made up of brown rocks complete with streaks of pinks and yellows and greens, with traces of blue and purple. It’s a bizzarre landscape, and thoroughly captivating.

Yosemite National Park, CA

Travelling from Death Valley to Yosemite is an ear-popping experience in itself, climbing from 200ft below sea level to 10,000ft above it through desert roads and mountain tracks. As you ascend the landscape changes, gradually becoming more green and noticeably cooler until you reach Yosemite, a glorious oasis of trees, lakes and mountains. We found a beach area, with a small tributary of water flowing through it – complete with a Beaver Dam, toothmarks visible in the logs they had dragged across the beach from the trees on the other side of the stream. I felt so small standing at the base of the sheer grey rockface that towered above me, the trees themselves dwarfed by it. We stopped off by a lake surrounded by deciduous trees and large rocks poking their peaks out of the water, a breeze gently blowing the surface of the lake producing a lapping sound at the shore where we stood. We hiked a mile or so down to Tolumne Grove, where the giant Sequoias stand proud and tall, so vast that you can’t see the top, so wide that you can fit a car through the centre. There were some that had fallen, their root systems visible – a single root wider than my thigh. The contrast to Death Valley was stark and the diversity of America’s precious landscape was evident as we visited the parks one by one.

Acadia National Park, ME

We stayed in the town of Bar Harbor, a lovely coastal town with restaurants serving clam chowder and blueberry pancakes and hotels overlooking the ocean. Acadia National Park is a combination of coastal and mountainous scenery, with Cadillac Mountain being the central feature. We took a drive on the Park Loop, a 27 mile road offering incredible Atlantic Coastal views and a trip to the top of Cadillac Mountain itself. The view over Frenchman Bay from the north end of the park is spectacular, with 4 small weather-beaten islands of land dotted about the water. The cloud hovered over the ocean as the sun struggled to shine through, the white tips of the waves breaking as they hit the rocks of the islands sending spray high into the air. In addition to the beaches and the mountains, Acadia is also 20% Wetland, has more than 20 lakes and ponds and is covered in forest. You don’t get much more diverse than that!

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, TN/NC

Recently in the news for severe wildfires which completely destroyed the lodge we stayed in, this is the most visited National Park in the US and spans 2 States, Tennessee and North Carolina. The Smoky Mountains are part of the larger Appalachian Mountain chain which runs from Newfoundland in Canada through to central Alabama. We drove up to Clingman’s Dome, the highest point in the park at over 6500ft, offering incredible views of the Smokies – the blue hues of the mountain tops stretching for miles all around. The Appalachian Trail, described in hilarious detail by Bill Bryson in his book ‘A Walk in the Woods‘, crosses Clingman’s Dome, making it the highest point of the trail between Maine and Georgia. We actually went up twice – the first day was so foggy that you couldn’t really see further than your hand. The following morning we had another go, and wow, was it worth it! The greenery of the foreground gave way to blue as the moutains silhouetted against each other in the distance, peak after peak rising and falling, with the sun shining intermittently through the fluffy clouds that sped past in the high gusts of wind enveloping the top of the mountain, casting moving shadows over the mountains below. There are 12 endangered or threatened species of mammal, fish, insect and plant life that call this park home – it MUST be protected.

These are just 7 of the 58 National Parks in the USA, and we have been blown away by all of them – the diversity and beauty of America’s natural landscape is incredible and MUST be preserved. I haven’t even mentioned the National Monuments, Recreational Areas, Preserves and Forests that we have been fortunate enough to visit, and the National Park Service looks after each of these (I will just include photos here as I will write about them elsewhere, but they are all too beautiful to leave out!):

Golden Gate National Recreational Area, CA

Canyon de Chelly National Monument, AZ

Glen Canyon National Recreational Area, AZ/UT

Jefferson National Expansion Memorial, MO

Martin Luther King Jnr National Historic Site, GA

Lincoln Home National Historic Site, IL

Cape Cod National Seashore, MA

Niagara Falls Heritage Area, NY

Statue of Liberty National Monument, NY

To finish on Lady Liberty is especially poignant at the moment. Her plaque reads:

“Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to breathe free, the wretched refuse of your teeming shore. Send these, the homeless, tempest-tossed to me, I lift my lamp beside the golden door!”

This is the America I love. I can’t wait to visit more of these unique wonders of nature. I just hope that the current administration recognises their inherent value and doesn’t destroy them for profit. Here’s to many more years of unspoilt beauty!

Many thanks to the National Park Service for maintaining and preserving American history, nature and wildlife for future generations.

 

48 hours in Boston.

Posted on by Posted in City Breaks, East Coast, Massachussetts, New England .

Boston. One of America’s most famous cities, home to Harvard University, some of the country’s richest history and the largest city in New England, it makes sense to start a tour of the North East region here.

We arrived in early May – an unseasonably hot day, there was an air of happiness with everyone relaxed, wearing shorts and baseball caps and filling the many open public spaces. We had 2 nights in Boston and a lot of ground to cover. Here is what we got up to:

1. Baseball at Fenway Park

I realised as we walked towards Fenway Park (the oldest ball park in Major League Baseball, built in 1912 and home to the Boston Red Sox ever since) that I had never been to a live professional sporting event! I know that is almost impossible to believe, but it’s true. So to say that I was excited was an understatement. We soaked up the atmosphere in the evening sun as people, some clearly straight from work in suits and ties, milled about eating hotdogs and drinking beer. Our seats were right on the back row, which gave us a great overview of the park.

Baseball is one of America’s favourite pastimes and never before have I felt so simultaneously a part of and apart from American culture. No one seemed to be paying particular attention to the game, yet every now and then a ripple of applause would echo through the stadium, for reasons unfathomable to me. Guys walked up and down the steps with trays of drinks or hotdogs balanced on their heads. We ordered a drink, passing our money down the line and receiving our drinks and change back again. Occasionally, the game would be interrupted by local kids doing performances, tributes to soldiers and police officers, and even a live proposal of marriage at a seemingly random point. After every single pitch, music was blasted out; sometimes the famous ‘Ballpark Organ music’, other times chart hits, and some details of the batter or pitcher appeared on the big screen. The sun was low, casting long shadows of the players across the field, and as the light faded behind the now glowing Coca-Cola sign, so too did the warmth. A strong, cold wind blew through the open bleachers and we snuggled together stubbornly drinking our iced lemonade for as long as we could bear it. We gave up at around 9.30pm (the Red Sox were losing anyway, apparently). It was marvellous fun and a great experience. I recommend it.

2. A Self-guided ‘Freedom Trail’ exploration

Boston is a great city to walk around, and following the Freedom Trail is the ideal way to see many of the city’s historical sights. There’s a handy red line in the pavement to follow and it leads you into some seriously pretty neighbourhoods such as Charlestown, complete with narrow streets, old-fashioned lampposts and the most stunning display of window boxes you’re ever likely to see (I suspect a little ‘one-up-man-ship’  from the house owners, but that’s fine by me). We opted for a self-guided tour so we could do things at our own leisure, but if you so wish you can follow costumed period characters around whilst they describe the history to you – it looked liked great fun.

3. Go to a place where everybody knows your name

In need of some refreshment? A good place to stop is at the Cheers pub. There are actually 2 in Boston. One is on Beacon St (pictured above) and was used for the exterior shots in the actual TV series. The other is near Faneuil Hall and features a reproduction interior. We enjoyed a lovely lunch and much needed break here – having already walked several miles in strong sunshine – which I’m sure made the pink lemonade taste even sweeter. Sadly no one knew our name. Not a soul.

4. Relax in Boston Common

This is just one of many beautiful open public spaces in Boston. A well designed and cared for place for people to relax and socialise, play and recharge, it is thought to be the oldest public city park in the US, dating back to the 1600s. We enjoyed a lovely stroll through the Common in the sunshine. It’s only small (50 acres, compared to London’s Hyde Park at 350 acres, or New York’s Central Park at 843 acres), but it truly is a refuge from the busyness of the city. The spring flowers were all in bloom and there was colour everywhere (you can read more about springtime in New England here).

5. Check out the view from the Skywalk at the Prudential Centre

There is something special about seeing a city from a different perspective, looking down and taking a moment as those below go about their lives. From The Skywalk at the Prudential Centre you can see 360 degrees around greater Boston from 50 floors up. Whilst the view here isn’t famous like the New York skyline, it’s still very beautiful and well worth a look.

6. Visit the Old State House

The Old State House was built in 1713 and housed the early government of the Colonial communities, and was where the Declaration of Independence was read in public for the first time in Massachussets. You can see all kinds of historical artifacts from history, ranging from clothes worn by John Hancock (a prominent Patriot of the American Revolution) to tea from the Boston Tea Party (see below for more details). The building itself stands in contrast with the modern architecture that has developed around it, and when we visited, it glowed in the afternoon sunshine.

7. The Old South Meeting House

The Old South Meeting House was built in 1729 by the Puritans, and was used for public meetings as well as worship. Long story short, in 1773 the British Government introduced the Tea Act, which allowed the East India Company to ship tea to the Colonies and only allowed certain Loyalist merchants to sell it, with added tax (it is more complicated than this, of course, but this is a blog post!). Increasingly angry meetings were held in the Old South Meeting House between the Loyalists and Patriots, leading to some pretty dire events including the Boston Massacre. A meeting held on December 16th 1773 failed to reach a compromise, and resulted in the Boston Tea Party – the destruction of a shipload of tea in Boston Harbor. It was this event that sparked the American Revolution and eventually the creation of America as we know it today.

We were fortunate enough to visit at the same time as a school group who were re-enacting the events of that infamous meeting. Each child had their own role to play, with a Loyalist group (essentially those loyal to the Crown and British Parliament) and a Patriot group (those opposed to both). We quietly observed the scene play out – the children acting their little hearts out  – full of passion and clearly loving every minute of their day out of the classroom. One boy was particularly pleased with his line, “NO TAXATION WITHOUT REPRESENTATION”, the small voice echoing around the room as he reacted with surprise at how loudly he spoke, followed by a big grin as he returned to his seat. It seems the British were not very pleasant at all, behaving like a bully stealing the lunch money from the kids they perceived to be weaker. It was an hour or so well spent, even if negotiating the gift shop looking for a fridge magnet whilst 50 children all decided which completely unrelated-to-the-attraction bead necklace or bouncy ball they were going to buy with their $3 pocket money was more than a little frantic.

8. Take a wander around the Reflection Pool and visit the ‘Mapparium’

Another of Boston’s many open public spaces, this is actually called ‘Christian Science Plaza’ as it is the home of the ‘Church of Christ, Scientist’ Headquarters (not to be confused with Scientology – a whole different idea which Tom Cruise is famed for being a part of). The building itself is complex and beautiful, with turrets and domes surrounded by trees and a huge ‘Reflection Pool’, mirroring the buildings at its edge. There was a group of children playing in the fountains at one end of the pond, shrieking with delight as they ran and ducked through the water. You can visit the Mary Baker Eddy (founder of Christian Science in 1879) Library, which houses the ‘Mapparium’, a 2-storey stained glass map of how the world looked politically in 1935. It is beautiful, and has the ‘whispering gallery’ effect on your voice which is great fun to try out: Whisper into your chest at one end of the walkway, and your friend can hear you loud and clear on the other end. You’re not allowed to take photos, so this one is from the people at Focus Lighting who revamped the lighting system at the attraction:

Photo Credit: Ryan Fischer, Focus Lighting, www.focuslighting.com

9. Visit the Bunker Hill Monument

The Battle of Bunker Hill was the first battle of the Revolutionary War in 1775 and whilst the Brits won this one, the Colonials put up a great fight and showed what they were made of. The monument is in the Charlestown District, the oldest district of Boston. The pavements are cobbled in places, and the houses closely packed together, painted in bright pastels with American flags flying from many of them. The sound of the breeze gently moving the trees above us was the only sound we could hear until we approached the momument itself. There were many visitors, some opting to climb up the inside of the 221 ft tall obelisk, others (like us) content with sitting on the many benches, recovering our breath and gazing out at the view from the top of the hill. It forms a part of the Freedom Trail, so if you’re taking this walking tour, you’ll see the monument.

Of course there are many other things to do in Boston; these were our highlights and the things that have stuck in our minds. It would be great to hear other’s experiences too.

New York Take 2: Lessons from the same place, at a different pace

Posted on by Posted in City Breaks, East Coast, New York .

Having been to New York in 2015 (you can read about that trip in another post), and uttering the words, “Mum would hate it here”, I decided a trip to New York with my Mum would be a great plan.

We discovered around 2 years ago that Mum had 1st cousins living in Connecticut (CT) and whilst CT has its own International Airport (Hartford Bradley), flights are at least £100 more expensive than flying to New York, and you can’t fly direct. Seeing as this was Mum’s first Trans-Atlantic flight I didn’t think rushing for transfers would be wise.

New York City is only 2 hours drive from CT, so why not stop off and explore The Big Apple! I had already seen the main sights, but Mum hadn’t so I repeated some experiences. It was so different this time around, taking a little more time, a slightly slower pace. Here are some highlights of our trip.

1. Staying at The Dylan

Picking a hotel is always a challenge. Looking for a central hotel that’s near a Metro station AND reasonably priced is not easy, but we stumbled upon the Dylan, a block away from Grand Central,  with breakfast included. It was perfect. A townhouse sitting in the middle of 41st Street, the decor simple but stylish, the rooms comfortable, and the breakfast plentiful, we could be at New York Central Library or 5th Avenue or Grand Central within 5 minutes.

On my last trip, my husband and I stayed at the One UN on 44th Street, directly opposite the UN Headquarters, with a lobby that wows you and raises your expectations when you walk through the doors. There are great views of the city from the rooms, but we didn’t have a great experience! I will write about our 2015 experience at some point, but I enjoyed the Dylan far more, and I would definitely stay there again.

LESSON: Don’t be swayed by swanky. Lovely views are luxury, but how long will you be spending in your room, really? Go for clean, comfortable and convenient every time!

2. Grand Central Station

On my last visit to the station, (you can read about it here) we didn’t linger long. With Mum, it became our central hub, where we started out and returned to each day. We spent TIME standing at the top of the steps watching the commuters rushing past. We ate delicious chicken and salad out of a polystyrene box in the food hall, sitting amongst the people of New York; the workers in their suits grabbing a bite and reading the New York Times, the kids shrieking in delight at their phones and munching fries, the homeless people sheltering from the rain and chatting with outreach workers. It was bustling and noisy and chaotic and wonderful.

LESSON: Eating in a restaurant with table service is great, but most definitely not necessary. Sit amongst the natives. Listen to their conversation. Watch through that small window you have into the life of someone who’s experiences are so different to yours.

3. Central Park

On my last trip, in May 2015, New York was HOT. Central Park was awash with bright greens under the bluest of blue skies, wispy cloud floating quietly by. There were hundreds of people in shorts and t-shirts lounging in the grass, snuggling with their partners or playing frisbee with friends, eating ice-creams and applying factor 50.

Not so in March. The trees were bare and the grassy areas fenced off to protect the vulnerable grass. Last Autumn’s brown and orange leaves were blowing limply across the pathways and the sky was heavy with cloud, threatening rain. The chill in the air stung our cheeks and turned our fingers numb, people were wrapped up tightly and music came from the ice rinks as skaters whirled around, falling, laughing, spinning and jumping.

We sat on a bench next to The Pond, watching the birds flit in between trees collecting twigs for their spring nests and a young girl, no more than 20, sieving through dirt next to the water, occasionally throwing bits in and muttering to herself as she worked. A saxophonist played ‘Make Someone Happy’ in the distance and a dog scuffled in the leaves at our feet.

We moved along, pausing to take the occasional photograph or to watch a performer blowing huge bubbles or painting street art. A group of performers had gathered a huge crowd and were big on audience participation. They had 4 or 5 poor souls lined up whilst they shouted and sang and vaulted over them. We watched for a few minutes, then made our hurried exit before we got picked on. An entire morning flew by in this very simple way; people watching, wandering, sitting, taking pictures.

LESSON: Beauty can be found in the glow of summer AND the hardness of winter – appreciate a place as you find it, not as you remember it!

3. The Rock Center Cafe

After our morning in the park, we were hungry. We ate at the Rock Center Cafe as we had tickets to the ‘Top of the Rock’ at 3pm. We sat at the bar for a drink – Mum asked for tea, and he presented an odd arrangement of  a pre-poured mug of tea (no teabag), which had an appearance similar to slightly burnt milk, and hot water in a porcelain jug (presumably to weaken the tea even further). Mum was grateful for the hot beverage, but said it tasted like ‘gnat’s pee’. I had coffee, always the wiser choice in the States.

We were shown to a table overlooking the ice rink, which afforded us more fabulous people watching opportunities. 5 skaters in particular caught our eye. They were taking this skating lark very seriously indeed, and there was significant rivalry between them.

‘The Purple Lady’, a delicate woman in a purple figure-skating dress, with grace and style on the ice, adding little flourishes as she glided around the rink practising one element over and over again, clearly frustrated with her perceived failures.

‘Ska-man’ wore a bright turquoise shirt and black trousers, complete with sunglasses and a black Pork-Pie Trilby hat. He included more funky moves and shuffles, too cool for school with his hands either in his pockets, or held loosely behind his back. He pretended no one was looking, but clearly hoped they were.

‘Am Dram’ meant business. Wearing headphones and a vest/trouser combo showing off a toned physique,  he was performing to music only he could hear, flicking his head up and raising his arms to an imagined audience. He was full of passion, using all the available space to twirl and dance around the rink, genuinely very good, but clearly showing off. Occasionally, he would come to our edge of the rink, lean up the wall, and engage in the kind of ‘Broadway Musical Number’ breathing where the whole chest and shoulders move up and down.

‘Street’ was sporting an oversized royal blue football jersey paired with baggy jeans. He alternated between speed skating up the straights, then gliding around the corners, arms outstretched with flare and poise. This was his one and only move, but he executed it with style.

‘Dr. Who’ was an older gentleman wearing a beige three quarter length trench coat, undone with the belt flapping as he moved. Halfway through dinner he removed his coat, revealing a tweed jacket, a black shirt and a red silky waistcoast, a fedora completing his look. His style was Sinatra-esque, and he treated us to a personal show of pirouettes and pivots, regularly embellishing by lifting his hat above his head, then spinning it back on with a flick of the elbow. He moved about the ice like a gentleman romancing a lady, even if he did take out the occasional kid in the process.

We spent 2 hours eating that lunch and cherished every minute, laughing at the unexpected theatre that played out before us and enjoying each other’s company.

LESSON: Slow down! Whilst you may not get to see everything, you end up seeing so much more!

5. Top of the Rock

Mum is scared of heights, so to go up a really high building was a challenge. But you can’t go to NYC without going upwards at some point, and soon enough we emerged on the top of the Rockefeller Building, the wind blowing away the cobwebs and New York City sprawled before us.

This was a new experience for both Mum and me as I didn’t have time on my last trip. I was captivated. In terms of views, I think it is better than the Empire State Building; on one side you have a fabulous view of Central Park with its straight edges and high-rise frame, on the other a view of the Empire State, standing tall and unmistakable, piercing the sky with its antenna. I had expected the Rockefeller to be the poor relation of the ESB, but not so. The ESB is iconic, and I think a first-timer should definitely get up there – but for views, you just can’t beat the Rock.

LESSON: Don’t let your expectations dictate your decisions. On my last trip, we didn’t make time for the Rockefeller because we perceived that it wasn’t as good as the ESB. Prepare to be pleasantly surprised – sometimes the things you least expect can produce some of your favourite memories.

We managed to fit a lot in to our 3 night stay, far more than covered here, yet it was wonderful to experience New York at a slightly slower pace – I appreciated the city far more and now I can’t wait to go back and experience more of what New York has to offer.

Check out some of those sights for yourself:

 

2 nights in New York: Seeing the sights when time is tight

Posted on by Posted in City Breaks, East Coast, New York .

The infamous skyline appeared over the horizon as we approached the Lincoln Tunnel, and excitement welled up within me. I was filled with anticipation at what the city had in store for us but we only had 2 nights, which is NOT long enough to see New York in all its splendour.

This is a review of our itinerary; what worked and what we could have done better – I hope it helps you plan your trip!

Day One: 2.30pm – Midnight

1. Grand Central Terminal

Grand Central is far more than just a railway station. It’s a core part of New York’s identity, featured in a million movies (probably), and it doesn’t disappoint. A place where you can observe the fast-paced life of a city in action, this impressive building and its tremendous people-watching potential is a great place to centre yourself for a tour of the city.

TIP: You can combine your visit to Grand Central with a meal in the huge food court downstairs if time is of the essence – they do great chicken!

2. Central Park

We walked from Grand Central down 5th Avenue to Sheep Meadow in Central Park, which took about 30 minutes. Now it may seem obvious but Central Park is a must-see, and it’s vast at 2.5 miles long and half a mile wide. You could easily spend a whole day there, but with such little time the most interesting thing for me was the famous image of the high rises around the straight edges of the park. I love the juxtaposition of nature and city in such close proximity, giving the sense of peace and tranquility all the while enlivened by the knowledge that the city is right there, waiting for you to emerge refreshed.

TIP: Head to Sheep Meadow as it’s a great viewpoint for the park and city, and you can chill out for a while with the locals.

3. Coffee at Cafe Lalo

For those of you familiar with the 90s movie ‘You’ve Got Mail’, this is the setting where Tom Hanks and Meg Ryan meet up. As a big Tom Hanks fan, I wanted to go and have coffee here, and you know what? I’m really glad we did. The cafe sits on an otherwise residential street off Broadway on 83rd Street and is a Parisian style patisserie. It’s all wooden inside with an antique cash register and a selection of desserts, pastries and cakes to make your mouth water. The sun was shining, we were thirsty, and we sat in the large open window sipping raspberry lemonade in the thriving atmosphere. It was wonderful. I would heartily recommend it, however, if it’s just a drink you want and aren’t obsessed with visiting movie sets like me, there are closer places to go.

TIP: If you’re really in a rush, you can pick up some water and a hotdog from a street vendor and eat in the park.

4. Empire State Building

We’d had enough walking, so caught the metro Red Line from 79th to 34th Street with the aim of getting to the top of the ESB before the sun began setting. One of the most iconic buildings in the world, the Empire State has somehow managed to maintain its infamy despite not being anywhere close to the world’s tallest building for many years now.  The Empire State is iconic and, whilst there are other options to see the view, if this is your first time in the city, I would say do it.

TIP: Buy tickets online before you go to save time in queues, and go up an hour before sunset and watch the sun go down from the top. Once you’re up there, you can stay as long as you want, so wrap up warm and watch night fall over Manhattan. It’s honestly one of my favourite memories of all time!

5. Times Square

Having watched darkness descend, it was time for some neon. Times Square is only just over half a mile from the Empire State Building, so we walked. We spent a little while in front of one of the big screens trying to get our face on it, which was not normally the sort of thing we would go for – but it was so much fun and I’m glad we did. Here is a picture of our achievement:

It took about 20 minutes to centre ourselves in the heart We are the bespectacled pair right in the middle. What winners we are.

TIP: Climb to the top of the red steps on Father Duffy Square for a perfect viewpoint to people-watch and gawp at the neon.

6. Dinner at Planet Hollywood

We were in a very crowded Times Square at 9pm, and we were hungry. We had come upon a $10 voucher for Planet Hollywood, so in we went. We didn’t have great expectations, and perhaps that played in the restaurant’s favour, but the service was great and our meal remains one of my favourites on our trips! I had a beautiful salad with a perfect balance of flavour, and I’ve recreated it several times at home. It was kind of fun, too, surrounded by all the memorabilia – sometimes it’s the unexpected things that prove to be the best!

TIP: If you leave eating until a little later, you won’t have to wait for a table and it will save you valuable time.

Day Two: Full Day in New York City

7. Helicopter Ride

So this is a little unusual for a 2 night stay, granted, but it was a birthday present from me to my husband. It was a misty day, but New York still delivered in the haze, and hovering over the Statue of Liberty was wonderful – a truly unique viewpoint.

TIP: If you only have 2 days, don’t take the helicopter unless it is a specific dream that you’ve always wanted to fulfil. It will take up a whole morning, and is really expensive. If you decide to do it, book ahead online to avoid disappointment and arrive in plenty of time. The experience will take up almost half a day for a 45 minute flight, so you need to factor that in to your planning.

8. Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island

We headed towards Battery Park to catch the boat to the Statue of Liberty. What trip to NYC would be complete without a trip to the Statue of Liberty? Once again a must-see on a first trip to the city, an iconic symbol of America standing tall and proud, guarding the gateway to the USA from Europe. We went up to the crown; 354 steps to the top, and whilst you can get a lift up to the pedestal level there’s no lift up to the crown. It’s a very narrow, steep spiral staircase leading up through the body of the statue and I was exhausted at the top, where you can peer out of small windows whilst experiencing the muscle burn of lactic acid, biding your time before your descent.

TIP: Buy your tickets online in advance. This way you can skip the queues and save a lot of time. Crown tickets cost more, and involve significant physical exertion for what I would argue is minimal gain (and a whole world of pain if you’re as unfit as I am). If time is of the essence, I wouldn’t bother – pedestal tickets are just as good and there is a lift! The whole experience, including Ellis Island, can take around 3-4 hours, so plan accordingly.

9. A quiet night in

We were shattered after Lady Liberty, and headed back to the hotel to plan our evening. In the end, the rain closed in and it absolutely threw it down – we really wanted to go and see Brooklyn Bridge, and initially it felt like a ‘waste of time’ to stay in, but we sat at the window of our hotel overlooking the Empire State and Crysler Buildings, and watched the world go by from the 32nd floor as the sound of the rain hammered against the slanted glass. It was fabulous.

TIP: Go with the flow. Even if you don’t have loads of time, sometimes saying no to one thing means you can experience something else. You’re never going to see everything in 2 days, so do what is right for you – every experience will leave you with valuable memories that can never be replaced.

Day Three: 11am – 2pm

9. Ground Zero

We still hadn’t seen the 9/11 Memorial so we took the Metro to Wall Street and walked around the corner to Ground Zero. We found the memorial to be really well thought out and rather beautiful, and it’s a very peaceful and reflective place. We crammed this visit in, but I am so pleased that we did. These days, you can go up the One World Trade Centre, but back then it was still being built. Make time to see this memorial if  you can. It’s worth it in my opinion.

TIP: There are museums and exhibits that can take time and cost money, but a visit to the Memorial itself is free and is a way to save on time if you don’t mind missing a deep look into the events of 9/11.

So 2 nights in New York. Not ideal, but I hope I’ve shown that it’s possible to do a lot in New York even when time is tight and given you some tips to make even more use of your time than we did!

Going to New York City? Check out this guide from Lonely Planet:

There’s something about spring in New England

Posted on by Posted in Connecticut, East Coast, Maine, Massachussetts, New England, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, Vermont .

It has always been a goal of mine to go to New England. I’ve read so much about it over the years; the lighthouses, the history, the foliage. New England in the Fall. That’s the dream right?

The problem is…flights are more expensive, hotels are more expensive, and according to all sources, the area becomes extremely busy with ‘leef-peepers’ – tourists who flock to New England for 2-3 weeks towards the end of September to the middle of October each year to watch the leaves change, adorning the landscape with fiery reds, yellows and oranges.

We opted to travel to New England in the Spring in order to save a bit of cash – always in the back of my mind was a flutter of disappointment that we couldn’t make it in the Autumn, but what a treat we had in store. Here are 5 things that make Spring an amazing time to visit New England.

1. The colours are stunning

A sentence heard often in the context of New England, but not usually relating to the Spring. However, the beauty merely takes on a different palette. Instead of the rusty colours of Autumn, we were treated to vibrant pinks and bright purples as trees covered in blossom lined every road:

Tulips decorated the parks and public spaces:

The colourful New England houses contrasted so perfectly with the pastel hues of the flowers.

And the greens were so…well, green!

The place positively hummed with new life. It was wonderful!

2. It’s quiet

Not in the kind of way that a place can make you uncomfortable – as if it’s very unpopular. Rather in a peaceful way – the winter tourists have gone home and the summer ones are yet to arrive. Any time before Memorial Day at the end of May will be ‘pre-season’. The downside? Some places close for refurbishment or cleaning. The upside? You’re guaranteed a table in good restaurants, attractions are cheaper, you may well get the best rooms as there is low occupancy, and you can enjoy the stunning countryside and beaches in peace and quiet!

3. You can see baby whales

Cape Cod, Massachussetts is a great place to go whale watching. It is such a privilege to see these incredible creatures in the wild – especially when you get to see mothers with their babies feeding in the Atlantic Ocean. Humpback Whales give birth in the middle of winter when they are in the Carribean. They migrate over to the Atlantic in the Spring with their offspring where they feed for 4 months or so, before leaving once again for the Carribean in the Autumn.

4. And cool pairs of birds preparing for parenthood

This particular bird is the Northern Cardinal – the male a brilliant red colour and the female with a bright red beak (you can just make her out behind the blind). These birds are native to North America all year around, but in the Spring will you see males and females together foraging for nesting materials, and occasionally ‘kissing’ when the males give the females the materials they have found.

5. You can experience winter and summer all in one day

The Spring in New England offers variable weather. One minute it can be baking hot, the next, cold and windy. Layers are definitely the way forward in this part of the US. We went up the Mount Washington Auto Road in New Hampshire, not quite to the summit as it was still very snowy at the top and the road was yet to be cleared.

We climbed to 4500ft, where the wind was blowing hard, the rain was spitting and it was only a few degrees above freezing. However, when we descended back down the mountain, it was 28 degrees Celcius at the base and whilst the wind was still blowing it felt like a different place. Ice cream weather for sure.

So, New England in the Springtime? Definitely. Whilst I would still love to see it in the Fall, spring is really something here. It truly is a beautiful place full of colour, life and variety. And I for one am very glad to have seen it.