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Tag Archives: New York

New York Take 2: Lessons from the same place, at a different pace

Posted on January 14, 2017 by emmalouiseclarke Posted in City Breaks, East Coast, New York .

Having been to New York in 2015 (you can read about that trip in another post), and uttering the words, “Mum would hate it here”, I decided a trip to New York with my Mum would be a great plan.

We discovered around 2 years ago that Mum had 1st cousins living in Connecticut (CT) and whilst CT has its own International Airport (Hartford Bradley), flights are at least £100 more expensive than flying to New York, and you can’t fly direct. Seeing as this was Mum’s first Trans-Atlantic flight I didn’t think rushing for transfers would be wise.

New York City is only 2 hours drive from CT, so why not stop off and explore The Big Apple! I had already seen the main sights, but Mum hadn’t so I repeated some experiences. It was so different this time around, taking a little more time, a slightly slower pace. Here are some highlights of our trip.

1. Staying at The Dylan

Picking a hotel is always a challenge. Looking for a central hotel that’s near a Metro station AND reasonably priced is not easy, but we stumbled upon the Dylan, a block away from Grand Central,  with breakfast included. It was perfect. A townhouse sitting in the middle of 41st Street, the decor simple but stylish, the rooms comfortable, and the breakfast plentiful, we could be at New York Central Library or 5th Avenue or Grand Central within 5 minutes.

On my last trip, my husband and I stayed at the One UN on 44th Street, directly opposite the UN Headquarters, with a lobby that wows you and raises your expectations when you walk through the doors. There are great views of the city from the rooms, but we didn’t have a great experience! I will write about our 2015 experience at some point, but I enjoyed the Dylan far more, and I would definitely stay there again.

LESSON: Don’t be swayed by swanky. Lovely views are luxury, but how long will you be spending in your room, really? Go for clean, comfortable and convenient every time!

2. Grand Central Station

http://emmalouiseclarke.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Grand-Central-10-sec.mp4

On my last visit to the station, (you can read about it here) we didn’t linger long. With Mum, it became our central hub, where we started out and returned to each day. We spent TIME standing at the top of the steps watching the commuters rushing past. We ate delicious chicken and salad out of a polystyrene box in the food hall, sitting amongst the people of New York; the workers in their suits grabbing a bite and reading the New York Times, the kids shrieking in delight at their phones and munching fries, the homeless people sheltering from the rain and chatting with outreach workers. It was bustling and noisy and chaotic and wonderful.

LESSON: Eating in a restaurant with table service is great, but most definitely not necessary. Sit amongst the natives. Listen to their conversation. Watch through that small window you have into the life of someone who’s experiences are so different to yours.

3. Central Park

On my last trip, in May 2015, New York was HOT. Central Park was awash with bright greens under the bluest of blue skies, wispy cloud floating quietly by. There were hundreds of people in shorts and t-shirts lounging in the grass, snuggling with their partners or playing frisbee with friends, eating ice-creams and applying factor 50.

Not so in March. The trees were bare and the grassy areas fenced off to protect the vulnerable grass. Last Autumn’s brown and orange leaves were blowing limply across the pathways and the sky was heavy with cloud, threatening rain. The chill in the air stung our cheeks and turned our fingers numb, people were wrapped up tightly and music came from the ice rinks as skaters whirled around, falling, laughing, spinning and jumping.

We sat on a bench next to The Pond, watching the birds flit in between trees collecting twigs for their spring nests and a young girl, no more than 20, sieving through dirt next to the water, occasionally throwing bits in and muttering to herself as she worked. A saxophonist played ‘Make Someone Happy’ in the distance and a dog scuffled in the leaves at our feet.

We moved along, pausing to take the occasional photograph or to watch a performer blowing huge bubbles or painting street art. A group of performers had gathered a huge crowd and were big on audience participation. They had 4 or 5 poor souls lined up whilst they shouted and sang and vaulted over them. We watched for a few minutes, then made our hurried exit before we got picked on. An entire morning flew by in this very simple way; people watching, wandering, sitting, taking pictures.

LESSON: Beauty can be found in the glow of summer AND the hardness of winter – appreciate a place as you find it, not as you remember it!

3. The Rock Center Cafe

After our morning in the park, we were hungry. We ate at the Rock Center Cafe as we had tickets to the ‘Top of the Rock’ at 3pm. We sat at the bar for a drink – Mum asked for tea, and he presented an odd arrangement of  a pre-poured mug of tea (no teabag), which had an appearance similar to slightly burnt milk, and hot water in a porcelain jug (presumably to weaken the tea even further). Mum was grateful for the hot beverage, but said it tasted like ‘gnat’s pee’. I had coffee, always the wiser choice in the States.

We were shown to a table overlooking the ice rink, which afforded us more fabulous people watching opportunities. 5 skaters in particular caught our eye. They were taking this skating lark very seriously indeed, and there was significant rivalry between them.

‘The Purple Lady’, a delicate woman in a purple figure-skating dress, with grace and style on the ice, adding little flourishes as she glided around the rink practising one element over and over again, clearly frustrated with her perceived failures.

‘Ska-man’ wore a bright turquoise shirt and black trousers, complete with sunglasses and a black Pork-Pie Trilby hat. He included more funky moves and shuffles, too cool for school with his hands either in his pockets, or held loosely behind his back. He pretended no one was looking, but clearly hoped they were.

‘Am Dram’ meant business. Wearing headphones and a vest/trouser combo showing off a toned physique,  he was performing to music only he could hear, flicking his head up and raising his arms to an imagined audience. He was full of passion, using all the available space to twirl and dance around the rink, genuinely very good, but clearly showing off. Occasionally, he would come to our edge of the rink, lean up the wall, and engage in the kind of ‘Broadway Musical Number’ breathing where the whole chest and shoulders move up and down.

‘Street’ was sporting an oversized royal blue football jersey paired with baggy jeans. He alternated between speed skating up the straights, then gliding around the corners, arms outstretched with flare and poise. This was his one and only move, but he executed it with style.

‘Dr. Who’ was an older gentleman wearing a beige three quarter length trench coat, undone with the belt flapping as he moved. Halfway through dinner he removed his coat, revealing a tweed jacket, a black shirt and a red silky waistcoast, a fedora completing his look. His style was Sinatra-esque, and he treated us to a personal show of pirouettes and pivots, regularly embellishing by lifting his hat above his head, then spinning it back on with a flick of the elbow. He moved about the ice like a gentleman romancing a lady, even if he did take out the occasional kid in the process.

http://emmalouiseclarke.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Ice-Skating-14-sec.mp4

We spent 2 hours eating that lunch and cherished every minute, laughing at the unexpected theatre that played out before us and enjoying each other’s company.

LESSON: Slow down! Whilst you may not get to see everything, you end up seeing so much more!

5. Top of the Rock

Mum is scared of heights, so to go up a really high building was a challenge. But you can’t go to NYC without going upwards at some point, and soon enough we emerged on the top of the Rockefeller Building, the wind blowing away the cobwebs and New York City sprawled before us.

This was a new experience for both Mum and me as I didn’t have time on my last trip. I was captivated. In terms of views, I think it is better than the Empire State Building; on one side you have a fabulous view of Central Park with its straight edges and high-rise frame, on the other a view of the Empire State, standing tall and unmistakable, piercing the sky with its antenna. I had expected the Rockefeller to be the poor relation of the ESB, but not so. The ESB is iconic, and I think a first-timer should definitely get up there – but for views, you just can’t beat the Rock.

LESSON: Don’t let your expectations dictate your decisions. On my last trip, we didn’t make time for the Rockefeller because we perceived that it wasn’t as good as the ESB. Prepare to be pleasantly surprised – sometimes the things you least expect can produce some of your favourite memories.

We managed to fit a lot in to our 3 night stay, far more than covered here, yet it was wonderful to experience New York at a slightly slower pace – I appreciated the city far more and now I can’t wait to go back and experience more of what New York has to offer.

Check out some of those sights for yourself:

 

2 Comments .
Tags: Grand Central Station, Ice Skating, New York, New York City, Road trip, Top of the Rock .

2 nights in New York: Seeing the sights when time is tight

Posted on January 8, 2017 by emmalouiseclarke Posted in City Breaks, East Coast, New York .

The infamous skyline appeared over the horizon as we approached the Lincoln Tunnel, and excitement welled up within me. I was filled with anticipation at what the city had in store for us but we only had 2 nights, which is NOT long enough to see New York in all its splendour.

This is a review of our itinerary; what worked and what we could have done better – I hope it helps you plan your trip!

Day One: 2.30pm – Midnight

1. Grand Central Terminal

Grand Central is far more than just a railway station. It’s a core part of New York’s identity, featured in a million movies (probably), and it doesn’t disappoint. A place where you can observe the fast-paced life of a city in action, this impressive building and its tremendous people-watching potential is a great place to centre yourself for a tour of the city.

TIP: You can combine your visit to Grand Central with a meal in the huge food court downstairs if time is of the essence – they do great chicken!

2. Central Park

We walked from Grand Central down 5th Avenue to Sheep Meadow in Central Park, which took about 30 minutes. Now it may seem obvious but Central Park is a must-see, and it’s vast at 2.5 miles long and half a mile wide. You could easily spend a whole day there, but with such little time the most interesting thing for me was the famous image of the high rises around the straight edges of the park. I love the juxtaposition of nature and city in such close proximity, giving the sense of peace and tranquility all the while enlivened by the knowledge that the city is right there, waiting for you to emerge refreshed.

TIP: Head to Sheep Meadow as it’s a great viewpoint for the park and city, and you can chill out for a while with the locals.

3. Coffee at Cafe Lalo

For those of you familiar with the 90s movie ‘You’ve Got Mail’, this is the setting where Tom Hanks and Meg Ryan meet up. As a big Tom Hanks fan, I wanted to go and have coffee here, and you know what? I’m really glad we did. The cafe sits on an otherwise residential street off Broadway on 83rd Street and is a Parisian style patisserie. It’s all wooden inside with an antique cash register and a selection of desserts, pastries and cakes to make your mouth water. The sun was shining, we were thirsty, and we sat in the large open window sipping raspberry lemonade in the thriving atmosphere. It was wonderful. I would heartily recommend it, however, if it’s just a drink you want and aren’t obsessed with visiting movie sets like me, there are closer places to go.

TIP: If you’re really in a rush, you can pick up some water and a hotdog from a street vendor and eat in the park.

4. Empire State Building

We’d had enough walking, so caught the metro Red Line from 79th to 34th Street with the aim of getting to the top of the ESB before the sun began setting. One of the most iconic buildings in the world, the Empire State has somehow managed to maintain its infamy despite not being anywhere close to the world’s tallest building for many years now.  The Empire State is iconic and, whilst there are other options to see the view, if this is your first time in the city, I would say do it.

TIP: Buy tickets online before you go to save time in queues, and go up an hour before sunset and watch the sun go down from the top. Once you’re up there, you can stay as long as you want, so wrap up warm and watch night fall over Manhattan. It’s honestly one of my favourite memories of all time!

5. Times Square

Having watched darkness descend, it was time for some neon. Times Square is only just over half a mile from the Empire State Building, so we walked. We spent a little while in front of one of the big screens trying to get our face on it, which was not normally the sort of thing we would go for – but it was so much fun and I’m glad we did. Here is a picture of our achievement:

It took about 20 minutes to centre ourselves in the heart We are the bespectacled pair right in the middle. What winners we are.

TIP: Climb to the top of the red steps on Father Duffy Square for a perfect viewpoint to people-watch and gawp at the neon.

6. Dinner at Planet Hollywood

We were in a very crowded Times Square at 9pm, and we were hungry. We had come upon a $10 voucher for Planet Hollywood, so in we went. We didn’t have great expectations, and perhaps that played in the restaurant’s favour, but the service was great and our meal remains one of my favourites on our trips! I had a beautiful salad with a perfect balance of flavour, and I’ve recreated it several times at home. It was kind of fun, too, surrounded by all the memorabilia – sometimes it’s the unexpected things that prove to be the best!

TIP: If you leave eating until a little later, you won’t have to wait for a table and it will save you valuable time.

Day Two: Full Day in New York City

7. Helicopter Ride

So this is a little unusual for a 2 night stay, granted, but it was a birthday present from me to my husband. It was a misty day, but New York still delivered in the haze, and hovering over the Statue of Liberty was wonderful – a truly unique viewpoint.

TIP: If you only have 2 days, don’t take the helicopter unless it is a specific dream that you’ve always wanted to fulfil. It will take up a whole morning, and is really expensive. If you decide to do it, book ahead online to avoid disappointment and arrive in plenty of time. The experience will take up almost half a day for a 45 minute flight, so you need to factor that in to your planning.

8. Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island

We headed towards Battery Park to catch the boat to the Statue of Liberty. What trip to NYC would be complete without a trip to the Statue of Liberty? Once again a must-see on a first trip to the city, an iconic symbol of America standing tall and proud, guarding the gateway to the USA from Europe. We went up to the crown; 354 steps to the top, and whilst you can get a lift up to the pedestal level there’s no lift up to the crown. It’s a very narrow, steep spiral staircase leading up through the body of the statue and I was exhausted at the top, where you can peer out of small windows whilst experiencing the muscle burn of lactic acid, biding your time before your descent.

TIP: Buy your tickets online in advance. This way you can skip the queues and save a lot of time. Crown tickets cost more, and involve significant physical exertion for what I would argue is minimal gain (and a whole world of pain if you’re as unfit as I am). If time is of the essence, I wouldn’t bother – pedestal tickets are just as good and there is a lift! The whole experience, including Ellis Island, can take around 3-4 hours, so plan accordingly.

9. A quiet night in

We were shattered after Lady Liberty, and headed back to the hotel to plan our evening. In the end, the rain closed in and it absolutely threw it down – we really wanted to go and see Brooklyn Bridge, and initially it felt like a ‘waste of time’ to stay in, but we sat at the window of our hotel overlooking the Empire State and Crysler Buildings, and watched the world go by from the 32nd floor as the sound of the rain hammered against the slanted glass. It was fabulous.

TIP: Go with the flow. Even if you don’t have loads of time, sometimes saying no to one thing means you can experience something else. You’re never going to see everything in 2 days, so do what is right for you – every experience will leave you with valuable memories that can never be replaced.

Day Three: 11am – 2pm

9. Ground Zero

We still hadn’t seen the 9/11 Memorial so we took the Metro to Wall Street and walked around the corner to Ground Zero. We found the memorial to be really well thought out and rather beautiful, and it’s a very peaceful and reflective place. We crammed this visit in, but I am so pleased that we did. These days, you can go up the One World Trade Centre, but back then it was still being built. Make time to see this memorial if  you can. It’s worth it in my opinion.

TIP: There are museums and exhibits that can take time and cost money, but a visit to the Memorial itself is free and is a way to save on time if you don’t mind missing a deep look into the events of 9/11.

So 2 nights in New York. Not ideal, but I hope I’ve shown that it’s possible to do a lot in New York even when time is tight and given you some tips to make even more use of your time than we did!

Going to New York City? Check out this guide from Lonely Planet:

1 Comment .
Tags: Atlantic Ccoast, East Coast, Grand Central Station, New York, New York City .

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  • America’s National Parks: An American Perk worth celebrating.
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  • 2 nights in New York: Seeing the sights when time is tight
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